A night with the devil

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20192634115189531
202017331
2021141111
20223321
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You have climbed 104/282 munros.

Climbed by year and month

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202323111

You have climbed 12/221 Corbetts.

I'm just starting to write up this walk of epic proportions almost a week later. My excuse is simply that in the days after I have been supremely tired, a little achy and my brain struggled to adjust back into normal life. I was only away 2 days and a night, but it felt a real shock to rejoin the bustle of life.

The grand plan, which was a bit too grand it turned out, was to traverse the Braeriach to Devil's Point ridge. Drop down into the Lairig Ghru to Corrour and go round towards Glen Luibeg and hang a left to climb Carn a'Mhaim and Ben MacDui. However, I found the first day so tough that anything other than walk out was not going to happen.

Date started:01/09/17
Distance:11.9 miles
Ascent:1466m
Descent:1030m
Time taken:10:58
Moving time:7:19
Average speed:1.63mph
Maximum speed:3.55mph

Braeriach to overnight camp

Chalamain Gap
The Chalamain Gap

Friday 1st September 2017

I left Florence at the Cairngorm ski centre car park. Making my way down to the lower level I discovered that the path down to Utsi's bridge over the Allt Mor was closed. Mikel Utsi was a Swedish Sami reindeer herder who with his wife, Dr Ethel Lindgren, introduced reindeer to the Cairngorms. I wandered up to the Rangers office and asked if there was any alternatives to walking down the road. Turned out there was a bus due in a couple of minutes. I grabbed a few coins from Florence and hoped they'd be enough to get me dropped off at the Sugar Bowl. The bridge was intact, but the boardwalk beside the river had been damaged. It was and the driver let me off at the corner opposite the car park. Shouldering my pack I left the road and quickly disappeared into the scrub. I spotted 2 deer munching the mosses, grasses, and trees. They didn't scarper off, I even managed to get my camera out of it's side pocket and get a couple of photies. It was a fantastic couple of minutes. Mindful of my long day ahead I left them to graze in peace.

Aviemore and Strathspey
Aviemore and Strathspey

Dropping down to Utsi's Bridge was easy but the climb up the other side reminded me I had a much heavier pack than normal. Up on the bank above the river the Chalamain Gap came into view. It's a famous, or infamous, pass from Cairngorm northern coires to the Lairig Ghru, Rothiemurchus, and the Cairn Toul ridge. In reality, it's a steep, horrible, jumbled boulder filled gully climb with steep and crumbly looking scree slopes and crags above you on either side. In winter it's an infamous avalanche trap. Today it was to be a wee taster of the many boulder fields to clamber through the rest of the day. Lovely. Hopping and teetering from one boulder to another I quickly overtook a couple who were struggling a little. Quite relieved to exit the Gap without the trolls under the rocks grabbing my foot, or falling over.

Remains of Oxford HM724 on Braeriach
Remains of Oxford HM724

The other side of the Gap the abominable scar of a path drops down to the entrance of the Lairig Ghru. I turned left to follow the burn up towards the turning for Braeriach. Just before it a cold clear stream bursts out from under rocks beside the path. I'd already finished a half litre bottle of water so re-filled it. I didn't bother treating it with chemicals, or filtering it. It was as mountain water should be. I've drunk here before without problem, if any one wonders.

I took the pitched path climbing steeply out of the Ghru, it was hard work with my overnight pack so I slowed down and kept stopping. No 'Alpine pace' seemed to work. Just keep putting one foot in front of the other. I was starting to wonder how much I'd bitten off. It doesn't last long, just a short stretch of reasonably well constructed path where anything else would quickly disintegrate. Lurchers Crag slabs overlooking the pass were glistening in the sunshine. I looked but didn't see any climbers. Mindful of the day still mostly to come I didn't hang about any more. Blue sky was appearing over Braeriach.

Carn Toul, An Lochain Uaine and Sgor an Lochain Uaine (Angels Peak)
Carn Toul, An Lochain Uaine and Sgor an Lochain Uaine

Sron na Lairig is a rounded ridge, one of about 4 ridges on the north side of Braeriach. On it's lower slopes the heather was in bloom, a sea of tiny dark purple flowers - Bell Heather. Above, the vegetation thins and becomes sandwiched between bands of boulder field which have to be crossed. Pausing to check the best line takes time. I spot a plausible way through and just go for it hoping for the best. Tedious as they are they aren't too steep and fairly short. Rejoining the rough mountain paths I keep making progress. Up here I prefer the paths left alone, not constructed monstrosities. Rough they usually are but made by the passage of walkers boots and shoes. Taking a breather the view behind is really extensive. Aviemore, rapidly sprawling, is just a faint hint of humanity. I take any well used right hand branches I can spot to cut the corner off, I didn't fancy loosing height even for a view into the Lairig. I knew I'd get a fine view south soon. And I did.

Braeriach summit cairn
Braeriach summit cairn

As the path climbs off Sron na Lairig and heads to the summit, it comes close to the edge of the cliffs into Coire Bhrochain with a view to the entrance of An Garbh Choire. Across, is An Lochain Uaine hemmed in it's coire below the peaks of Sgor An Lochain Uaine (otherwise known as Angel's Peak), and Cairn Toul. I wondered if there's any space to put a tent beside the lochan. After a couple of false summits the cairn comes into view.

I hang around the the summit of Braeriach for 10 minutes contemplating the view, and that it's taken me 4 hours to get here. I mentally work out how long the rest will take. Given I have a tent and sleeping bag I could probably find a pitch by heading eastwards a bit towards the Moine Mor if needs be. I decide to press on.

Ben MacDui across the Lairig Ghru
Ben MacDui across the Lairig Ghru

From here it's new territory for me. I try to pick up a path, any path, over the rough top. Nothing leaps out at me so I follow the rough line on my map. I can see the Einich Cairn, and soon the Wells of Dee comes into view. So I carry on, heading roughly straight for it. The Wells are considered to be the source of the river Dee. I had wondered about sleeping there and turning it into a 3 day trip but rejected it. In lovely hindsight it might have been better. I dropped down through boulders to the young Dee just before it became the waterfall crashing into the Garbh Coire. Picking up water again, I looked at it - it was clear. I sniffed it - it didn't smell of anything. And it was cold so I took a sip. "That'll do" I muttered to myself. I didn't treat it. Drinking plenty more, I refilled again and slipped the bottle in my rucksack side pocket. That's the beauty of small bottles; quickly pick up water and move on. No faffing with a bladder.

An Gharbh Choire Mor
An Gharbh Choire Mor

The next task was to climb across the shoulder of Carn na Criche, above Garbh Coire Mor. Following the cliff edge a bit too closely - I could have cut off a corner, I did have a good view of the cliffs. Somewhere below me lay a patch of snow gradually shrinking but still holding out for the day more snow arrives. Hopefully it makes it. Around the coire rim I get to see the way up to Sgor an Lochain Uaine. More boulders. Well I'm here now. The descent to the col is a delightful respite. The path is mostly grass with few rocks acting as trip hazards so I was able to stride out. Up the other side I slow right down and pick my way across boulders. Eventually I'm at the summit. There sits a cairn with quite a view. The Garbh Coire Mor below it, the Lairig Ghru, all the way over to Cairngorm, and of course views over the Moine Mor.

Sgor An Lochain Uaine (Angel's Peak)
Sgor An Lochain Uaine (Angel's Peak)

I spent just 4 minutes taking in the view before turning right and heading over to another plausible looking 'summit cairn'. I didn't much care which one was *the* summit. I walked straight beside it hardly pausing. Time was marching on and I had already started to feel tired. I upped my regular grab of a handfull of jerky, with occasional squares of Lindt 99% chocolate. My bottle of water was nearly out. I'd soon have to swap it for the one inside my pack. I didn't take many photos of the next bit. The drop down to the next col was hard work. So too was the climb up to Cairn Toul. I think it was just one contiguous boulder field. Doesn't matter if it's going down or up it's all hard work. I was simultaneously trying to keep up the pace and place my feet precisely on good rock. Occasionally where I thought I was going to land, wasn't. I was getting clumsy as well as tired. I had to slow down, regardless of time. To force the pace was not going to end well. Cairn Toul was reached with relief.

Looking to Cairn Toul
Looking to Cairn Toul

It was around 5pm now. I still had to go over another minor top - Stob Coire an t-Saighdeir. This would be the last place I might get phone coverage, so I called Paul to check in and say "good night". There was no way I'd get any phone coverage on the col before The Devil's Point (Bod an Domhain). It was a quick phone call. Leaving the summit I followed a short ridge to another viewpoint, noting below to my right lay another more boulders. Inching down carefully from one boulder to another was horrible. I couldn't find any lines to step easily from one to another. At each one I had to look around to find the next boulder. There wasn't any sign of a path which might have helped. The boulder slope looked like a free-for-all - go where you will.

Cairn Toul summit cairn
Cairn Toul summit cairn

Finally at the shallow col I looked back and saw some resemblance of a path as it disappeared amongst the boulders. Having discovered a path I kept to it over the minor top and down the other side. Seeing the col before the Devils point was most welcome, even if the ground ahead of me was less than ideal. Two lads who had been gradually chasing me all day took a short cut across the hillside and got in front. They ended up on the path a little ahead. Their short cut was only slight. They reached the col before me and were obviously looking around for a spot to pitch a tent. I was quite glad I might have company overnight.

The lads pitched a fair size tent and were obviously sharing. I dropped my bag some way from them where I thought it looked okay. Not to damp, and not too bumpy either. I wandered over to them for a chat, as much as to check them out, and to make sure they were happy I was far enough away. It was all cool. Whilst chatting a family group appeared seemingly out of no-where. They too were going to camp on the col due to the vast number of midges at Corrour. Returning to my rucksack, pulled out my tent and got it pitched, pumped air into the mat, and pulled out my sleeping bag to fluff itself up. It was well past 7pm now, and food was the next priority. Eggs I'd boiled for lunch were hastily consumed along with the cooked chicken. To keep my rucksack lighter I hadn't brought a stove. It didn't bother me much.

Cairn a' Mhaim across the Lairig Ghru
Cairn a' Mhaim across the Lairig Ghru

What was a little annoying was encountering a slight wee problem. In the intervening years since the last time I needed a wee in the outdoors I'd obviously forgotten the technique. Not too much harm to put up with on an overnighter, but I'd have preferred not to. Lesson learnt.

I crashed into my sleeping back about 9pm. Not sleeping so well, I got up for a pee 2 more times during the night. No bother then! I found I'd pitched on a bit of an odd convex slope and was slipping off either side of my mat when I was restless. I did get a couple of blocks of welcome oblivion.

 

 

 

 

Saturday 2nd September 2017

Date started:02/09/17
Distance:12.7 miles
Ascent:740m
Descent:1044m
Time taken:10:32
Moving time:8:13
Average speed:1.55mph
Maximum speed:2.95mph

Return via the Lairig Ghru

The Devils Point from my tent
The Devils Point from my tent at 7am

Waking after the second block of sleep it was just before 6am and getting light. I got up and wandered off to the summit of The Devils Point. Sunshine was peaking over Carn a Mhaim north ridge. The view from the top was fantastic. I vowed to get out like that more often. Not entirely sure how I'm going to do so with the onset of autumn and winter but we'll see. I spent a while up there enjoying the warmth of the sun and the view. Returning the way I came up I went back to my tent and packed up.

The Devil's Point summit cairn
The Devil's Point summit cairn

Putting todays ration of jerky in my pocket and I checked around my campsite for anything dropped or hidden in the grass and moss. Happy nothing left I wandered down to the col and the path into Coire Odhor. Corrour bothy some 400+ metres below looked small. Crossing the burn tumbling into the coire I didn't pick up water. Yesterday I'd treated water from the spring on the edge of the col, not being quite sure of its purity, and still had enough to last me through the Lairig Ghru. The top part of the path was steep and very loose with tiny ball bearing like rolling gravel. Precariously I picked my way down onto more stable but rougher path below. Midges were indeed at swarm levels around the bothy. I rapidly took advantage of a slightly more civilised wee in the loo and made haste away to the bridge over the River Dee.

The Lairig Ghru
The Lairig Ghru

There were the usual small burn crossings where you have a bit of step across the banks or a big boulder in the middle. One such crossing was a straight jump across from big boulder to another. The gap was huge! I had to run and jump it. Whoever constructed that when building the path should be made to jump it with a big pack and their knees tied together. Or something. I followed the path up to the Lairig path and turned north, for home.

The Devil's Point from the Lairig Ghru
The Devil's Point and Corrour Bothy

Hurrying was definitely out today. Tiredness had crept over me, my muscles ached and refused to operate well. I gave up pushing ahead and savoured the pass. Coming across a bunch of large weathered boulders I wondered which was /the/ Clach nan Tallear - the tailors stone. Legend has it that 3 tailors from Braemar travelled to Aviemore for a night out. On their return one snowy winter's night they perished, found frozen to death beside the stone. It's a good story, whether or not it's true! Passing the end of the path up to the north ridge of Carn a' Mhaim I made a mental note to remember. I could do a circuit over the munro from the Lin off Dee quite easily.

For much of the way through the pass the path sticks to the east side. Only at the Pools of Dee does it swap sides, and then having got the hang of that does it a few more times. A few boulder fields got in the way, in a rather half-hearted way from yesterday. Approaching the Pools of Dee I met a number of DofE groups out. Later I also met one of their 'shadows' - people who follow some way behind and make sure they're not getting into bother. I picked up water at the spring near the entrance to the pass, as I did yesterday. Then I turned off and trudged up the path to the Chalamain Gap. It looks just as ugly from this direction. The Gap itself was fine. In my tiredness it took me longer to see my way through but I managed without drama. The end was now in sight, although I had to decide how to get back up to the ski centre car park. I decided since the landslide is not far from Utsi's bridge I'd go and have a look. A couple of reindeer with their handlers appeared from the gorge ahead of me. What wonderful animals. The landslide was actually easy to bypass for a mountain walker. I can imagine tourists have trouble tho.

Getting back to Florence felt good. I'd had a fantastic couple of days in the mountains. I'd slept exactly where I'd planned. Okay I hadn't gone over Carn a'Mhaim and Ben Macdui which was the original idea. It didn't matter to me. After many years I'd finally slept in the Cairngorms. That gave me a fantastic sense of achievement, as well as that of 3 new munros.

Tags: munro, outdoor, scotland Written 02/09/17 

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