Climbed by year and monthYear | New | Total | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | June | July | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec |
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unknown | 23 | 23 | | | | | | | | | | | | | 2010 | 2 | 2 | | | | | | | | | | | | | 2016 | 7 | 8 | | | | | | 1 | 1 | 4 | 2 | | | | 2017 | 24 | 27 | 2 | | 4 | 4 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 4 | | | | 2018 | 10 | 13 | 1 | | | 1 | 3 | 2 | 3 | 2 | | | 1 | | 2019 | 26 | 34 | 1 | 1 | | 5 | 1 | 8 | 9 | 5 | | 3 | 1 | | 2020 | 1 | 7 | | | | | | | 3 | 3 | 1 | | | | 2021 | 1 | 4 | | | | 1 | | 1 | 1 | | 1 | | | | 2022 | 3 | 3 | | | | | | | | 2 | 1 | | | | 2023 | 7 | 11 | | | | 3 | 6 | 1 | | | | | 1 | | You have climbed 104/282 munros.
Climbed by year and monthYear | New | Total | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | June | July | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec |
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unknown | 1 | 1 | | | | | | | | | | | | | 2017 | 1 | 1 | | | | | | 1 | | | | | | | 2019 | | 1 | 1 | | | | | | | | | | | | 2020 | | 3 | | 1 | | | | | 1 | | | 1 | | | 2021 | 6 | 8 | | | | 1 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | | 1 | | 2022 | 2 | 3 | | | 1 | 1 | | 1 | | | | | | | 2023 | 2 | 3 | | | | | | 1 | | 1 | | | | 1 | You have climbed 12/221 Corbetts.
I'm just starting to write up this walk of epic proportions almost a
week later. My excuse is simply that in the days after I have been
supremely tired, a little achy and my brain struggled to adjust back into
normal life. I was only away 2 days and a night, but it felt a real
shock to rejoin the bustle of life.
The grand plan, which was a bit too grand it turned out, was to traverse
the Braeriach to Devil's Point ridge. Drop down into the Lairig Ghru to
Corrour and go round towards Glen Luibeg and hang a left to climb
Carn a'Mhaim and Ben MacDui. However, I found the first day so tough that
anything other than walk out was not going to happen.
Date started: | 01/09/17 |
Distance: | 11.9 miles |
Ascent: | 1466m |
Descent: | 1030m |
Time taken: | 10:58 |
Moving time: | 7:19 |
Average speed: | 1.63mph |
Maximum speed: | 3.55mph |
Braeriach to overnight camp
The Chalamain Gap
Friday 1st September 2017
I left Florence at the Cairngorm ski centre car park. Making my way
down to the lower level I discovered that the path down to Utsi's bridge
over the Allt Mor was closed. Mikel Utsi was a Swedish Sami reindeer
herder who with his wife, Dr Ethel Lindgren, introduced reindeer to the
Cairngorms. I wandered up to the Rangers office and asked if there was any
alternatives to walking down the road. Turned out there was a bus due in a
couple of minutes. I grabbed a few coins from Florence and hoped they'd be
enough to get me dropped off at the Sugar Bowl. The bridge was intact,
but the boardwalk beside the river had been damaged. It was and the driver
let me off at the corner opposite the car park. Shouldering my pack I
left the road and quickly disappeared into the scrub. I spotted 2 deer
munching the mosses, grasses, and trees. They didn't scarper off, I even
managed to get my camera out of it's side pocket and get a couple of
photies. It was a fantastic couple of minutes. Mindful of my long day ahead
I left them to graze in peace.
Aviemore and Strathspey
Dropping down to Utsi's Bridge was easy but the climb up the other side
reminded me I had a much heavier pack than normal. Up on the bank above
the river the Chalamain Gap came into view. It's a famous, or infamous,
pass from Cairngorm northern coires to the Lairig Ghru, Rothiemurchus,
and the Cairn Toul ridge. In reality, it's a steep, horrible, jumbled
boulder filled gully climb with steep and crumbly looking scree slopes
and crags above you on either side. In winter it's an infamous avalanche
trap. Today it was to be a wee taster of the many boulder fields to
clamber through the rest of the day. Lovely.
Hopping and teetering from one boulder to another I quickly overtook a
couple who were struggling a little. Quite relieved to exit the Gap
without the trolls under the rocks grabbing my foot, or falling over.
Remains of Oxford HM724
The other side of the Gap the abominable scar of a path drops down to the
entrance of the Lairig Ghru. I turned left to follow the burn up towards
the turning for Braeriach.
Just before it a cold clear stream bursts out from under rocks beside the
path. I'd already finished a half litre bottle of water so re-filled it. I
didn't bother treating it with chemicals, or filtering it. It was as mountain
water should be. I've drunk here before without problem, if any one wonders.
I took the pitched path climbing steeply out of the Ghru, it was hard work
with my overnight pack so I slowed down and kept stopping. No 'Alpine pace'
seemed to work. Just keep putting one foot in front of the other. I was
starting to wonder how much I'd bitten off. It doesn't last long, just a
short stretch of reasonably well constructed path where anything else would
quickly disintegrate. Lurchers Crag slabs overlooking the pass were
glistening in the sunshine. I looked but didn't see any climbers. Mindful of
the day still mostly to come I didn't hang about any more. Blue sky was
appearing over Braeriach.
Carn Toul, An Lochain Uaine and Sgor an Lochain Uaine
Sron na Lairig is a rounded ridge, one of about 4 ridges on the north side
of Braeriach. On it's lower slopes the heather was in bloom, a sea of tiny
dark purple flowers - Bell Heather. Above, the vegetation thins and becomes
sandwiched between bands of boulder field which have to be crossed. Pausing
to check the best line takes time. I spot a plausible way through and just
go for it hoping for the best. Tedious as they are they aren't too steep
and fairly short. Rejoining the rough mountain paths I keep making progress.
Up here I prefer the paths left alone, not constructed monstrosities. Rough
they usually are but made by the passage of walkers boots and shoes. Taking
a breather the view behind is really extensive. Aviemore, rapidly sprawling,
is just a faint hint of humanity. I take any well used right hand branches
I can spot to cut the corner off, I didn't fancy loosing height even for a
view into the Lairig. I knew I'd get a fine view south soon. And I did.
Braeriach summit cairn
As the path climbs off Sron na Lairig and heads to the summit, it comes
close to the edge of the cliffs into Coire Bhrochain with a view to the
entrance of An Garbh Choire. Across, is An Lochain Uaine hemmed in it's coire
below the peaks of Sgor An Lochain Uaine (otherwise known as Angel's Peak), and Cairn Toul. I wondered if there's any space to put a tent beside the lochan. After a couple of false summits the cairn comes into view.
I hang around the the summit of Braeriach for 10 minutes contemplating the
view, and that it's taken me 4 hours to get here. I mentally work out
how long the rest will take. Given I have a tent and sleeping bag I could
probably find a pitch by heading eastwards a bit towards the Moine Mor if
needs be. I decide to press on.
Ben MacDui across the Lairig Ghru
From here it's new territory for me. I try to pick up a path, any path,
over the rough top. Nothing leaps out at me so I follow the rough line
on my map. I can see the Einich Cairn, and soon the Wells of Dee comes
into view. So I carry on, heading roughly straight for it. The Wells are
considered to be the source of the river Dee. I had wondered about sleeping
there and turning it into a 3 day trip but rejected it. In lovely hindsight
it might have been better. I dropped down through boulders to the young Dee
just before it became the waterfall crashing into the Garbh Coire. Picking
up water again, I looked at it - it was clear. I sniffed it - it didn't
smell of anything. And it was cold so I took a sip. "That'll do" I muttered
to myself. I didn't treat it. Drinking plenty more, I refilled again and
slipped the bottle in my rucksack side pocket. That's the beauty of small
bottles; quickly pick up water and move on. No faffing with a bladder.
An Gharbh Choire Mor
The next task was to climb across the shoulder of Carn na Criche, above
Garbh Coire Mor. Following the cliff edge a bit too closely - I could have
cut off a corner, I did have a good view of the cliffs. Somewhere below me
lay a patch of snow gradually shrinking but still holding out for the day
more snow arrives. Hopefully it makes it. Around the coire rim I get to see
the way up to Sgor an Lochain Uaine. More boulders. Well I'm here now. The
descent to the col is a delightful respite. The path is mostly grass with few
rocks acting as trip hazards so I was able to stride out. Up the other side I
slow right down and pick my way across boulders. Eventually I'm at the
summit. There sits a cairn with quite a view. The Garbh Coire Mor below it,
the Lairig Ghru, all the way over to Cairngorm, and of course views over the
Moine Mor.
Sgor An Lochain Uaine (Angel's Peak)
I spent just 4 minutes taking in the view before turning right and heading
over to another plausible looking 'summit cairn'. I didn't much care which
one was *the* summit. I walked straight beside it hardly pausing. Time was
marching on and I had already started to feel tired. I upped my regular
grab of a handfull of jerky, with occasional squares of Lindt 99% chocolate.
My bottle of water was nearly out. I'd soon have to swap it for the one
inside my pack. I didn't take many photos of the next bit. The drop down to
the next col was hard work. So too was the climb up to Cairn Toul. I think
it was just one contiguous boulder field. Doesn't matter if it's going down
or up it's all hard work. I was simultaneously trying to keep up the pace
and place my feet precisely on good rock. Occasionally where I thought I
was going to land, wasn't. I was getting clumsy as well as tired. I had to
slow down, regardless of time. To force the pace was not going to end well.
Cairn Toul was reached with relief.
Looking to Cairn Toul
It was around 5pm now. I still had to go over another minor top - Stob
Coire an t-Saighdeir. This would be the last place I might get phone
coverage, so I called Paul to check in and say "good night". There was no
way I'd get any phone coverage on the col before The Devil's Point (Bod an
Domhain). It was a quick phone call. Leaving the summit I followed a
short ridge to another viewpoint, noting below to my right lay another more
boulders. Inching down carefully from one boulder to another was horrible.
I couldn't find any lines to step easily from one to another. At each one
I had to look around to find the next boulder. There wasn't any sign of a
path which might have helped. The boulder slope looked like a free-for-all -
go where you will.
Cairn Toul summit cairn
Finally at the shallow col I looked back and saw some resemblance of a
path as it disappeared amongst the boulders. Having discovered a path
I kept to it over the minor top and down the other side. Seeing the
col before the Devils point was most welcome, even if the ground ahead of
me was less than ideal. Two lads who had been gradually chasing me all day
took a short cut across the hillside and got in front. They ended up on the
path a little ahead. Their short cut was only slight. They reached the col
before me and were obviously looking around for a spot to pitch a tent. I was
quite glad I might have company overnight.
The lads pitched a fair size tent and were obviously sharing. I dropped my
bag some way from them where I thought it looked okay. Not to damp, and not
too bumpy either. I wandered over to them for a chat, as much as to check
them out, and to make sure they were happy I was far enough away. It was all
cool. Whilst chatting a family group appeared seemingly out of no-where.
They too were going to camp on the col due to the vast number of midges
at Corrour. Returning to my rucksack, pulled out my tent and got it pitched,
pumped air into the mat, and pulled out my
sleeping bag to fluff itself up. It was well past 7pm now, and food was the
next priority. Eggs I'd boiled for lunch were hastily consumed along with
the cooked chicken. To keep my rucksack lighter I hadn't brought a stove.
It didn't bother me much.
Cairn a' Mhaim across the Lairig Ghru
What was a little annoying was encountering a slight wee problem. In the
intervening years since the last time I needed a wee in the outdoors I'd
obviously forgotten the technique. Not too much harm to put up with on
an overnighter, but I'd have preferred not to. Lesson learnt.
I crashed into my sleeping back about 9pm. Not sleeping so well, I got up
for a pee 2 more times during the night. No bother then! I found I'd pitched
on a bit of an odd convex slope and was slipping off either side of my mat
when I was restless. I did get a couple of blocks of welcome oblivion.
Saturday 2nd September 2017
Date started: | 02/09/17 |
Distance: | 12.7 miles |
Ascent: | 740m |
Descent: | 1044m |
Time taken: | 10:32 |
Moving time: | 8:13 |
Average speed: | 1.55mph |
Maximum speed: | 2.95mph |
Return via the Lairig Ghru
The Devils Point from my tent at 7am
Waking after the second block of sleep it was just before 6am and getting
light. I got up and wandered off to the summit of The Devils Point.
Sunshine was peaking over Carn a Mhaim north ridge. The view from the top
was fantastic. I vowed to get out like that more often. Not entirely sure
how I'm going to do so with the onset of autumn and winter but we'll see.
I spent a while up there enjoying the warmth of the sun and the view.
Returning the way I came up I went back to my tent and packed up.
The Devil's Point summit cairn
Putting todays ration of jerky in my pocket and I checked around my campsite for
anything dropped or hidden in the grass and moss. Happy nothing left I
wandered down to the col and the path into Coire Odhor. Corrour bothy some
400+ metres below looked small. Crossing the burn tumbling into the coire
I didn't pick up water. Yesterday I'd treated water from the spring on the
edge of the col, not being quite sure of its purity, and still had enough
to last me through the Lairig Ghru. The top part of the path was steep and
very loose with tiny ball bearing like rolling gravel. Precariously I picked my way
down onto more stable but rougher path below. Midges were indeed at swarm
levels around the bothy. I rapidly took advantage of a slightly more
civilised wee in the loo and made haste away to the bridge over the River
Dee.
The Lairig Ghru
There were the usual small burn crossings where you have a bit of step
across the banks or a big boulder in the middle. One such crossing was a
straight jump across from big boulder to another. The gap was huge! I had
to run and jump it. Whoever constructed that when building the path should
be made to jump it with a big pack and their knees tied together. Or something.
I followed the path up to the Lairig path and turned north, for home.
The Devil's Point and Corrour Bothy
Hurrying was definitely out today. Tiredness had crept over me, my muscles
ached and refused to operate well. I gave up pushing ahead and savoured the
pass. Coming across a bunch of large weathered boulders I wondered which was
/the/ Clach nan Tallear - the tailors stone. Legend has it that 3 tailors
from Braemar travelled to Aviemore for a night out. On their return one
snowy winter's night they perished, found frozen to death beside the stone.
It's a good story, whether or not it's true! Passing the end of the path up to the north ridge of Carn a' Mhaim I made a mental note to remember. I could
do a circuit over the munro from the Lin off Dee quite easily.
For much of the way through the pass the path sticks to the east side. Only
at the Pools of Dee does it swap sides, and then having got the hang of
that does it a few more times. A few boulder fields got in the way, in a
rather half-hearted way from yesterday. Approaching the Pools of Dee I met
a number of DofE groups out. Later I also met one of their 'shadows' -
people who follow some way behind and make sure they're not getting into
bother. I picked up water at the spring near the entrance to the pass, as
I did yesterday. Then I turned off and trudged up the path to the Chalamain
Gap. It looks just as ugly from this direction. The Gap itself was fine. In
my tiredness it took me longer to see my way through but I managed without
drama. The end was now in sight, although I had to decide how to get back up
to the ski centre car park. I decided since the landslide is not far from
Utsi's bridge I'd go and have a look. A couple of reindeer with their handlers
appeared from the gorge ahead of me. What wonderful animals. The landslide
was actually easy to bypass for a mountain walker. I can imagine tourists
have trouble tho.
Getting back to Florence felt good. I'd had a fantastic couple of days in the
mountains. I'd slept exactly where I'd planned. Okay I hadn't gone over Carn
a'Mhaim and Ben Macdui which was the original idea. It didn't matter to me.
After many years I'd finally slept in the Cairngorms. That gave me a
fantastic sense of achievement, as well as that of 3 new munros.
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