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Munich

Over the years we've visited Munich a lot, originally for Oktoberfest but these days at other times too when the weather is better. In addition to the usual city guides I've acquired various lists from different people of their favourite places, which I've handed on to friends going to Munich.

To cut down on the photocopying I've now OCRed them and put them here.

You may also like to read our e-postcard from Munich which has details of a number of beer gardens we discovered in Summer 2001.


The Voice of America List

One time when we went Brian was in touch with this german guy who worked for Voice of America whose name, to my shame, I can't remember. He gave us this document which is an excellent starting point for Munich.

    Some tips and hints for visiting Munich

    Oktoberfest.

    Bavarians usually call it "Wies'n". Go there before it begins. You can see all the tents and rides without people stepping on your feet. There is a canteen which is not only for people who work out there. Anybody can buy beer and something to eat there, and it's very cheap.

    Weißes Brähaus (Tal 10. City center).

    It's famous for its Schneider Weizen and for the Aventinus, a Starkbier Weizen with a high alcohol content. Be careful, many people can't drink more than two glasses of it! Don't say I didn't warn you if a part of your memory is missing the next day. Drinking Aventinus (or "Affen" as we say in Munich) should be the last serious thing you planned for that day.

    The Weißes Bräuhaus is also known as a good place to eat. If I should recommend anything particular. I would vote for the Schweinshaxe, but any of the Bavarian specialties are good here.

    Bratwurst-Herzl (Heiliggeiststr. 3, City center)

    Excellent Bavarian meals. They are worth a bit trouble. People are often queuing for a seat, so you must be lucky to get a free place. And it's not the place to have another beer after lunch. I think they are closed in the afternoon.

    Haxnbauer (Sparkassenstr., City center)

    Biggest Schweinshaxn grill in thesvorld. The best part of a Schweinshaxe is the skin. Many foreigners don't know that and leave it over as it is a bit hard to bite, but it's not hard, it's just crunchy.

    Zum Franziskaner (Perusastr. 5, City center)

    The best Weißwurst of the world. And an excellent Leberkäse. Drink a Franziskaner Hefeweizen with it, and you feel in heaven!

    BTW: Weißwurst and Leberkäse are always eaten with sweet mustard, Hausmacher mustard or Weißwurst mustard (there's not much difference in taste between these three, however, most people think the Hausmacher is the best one). It is more than tasteless to take hot mustard or even ketchup for the Weißwurst.

    I personally prefer to cut the Weißwurst in slices acrid to cat it with the skin, however, most Bavarians suck it out (yes. take it in your hand and suck at one end until you have only the empty skin left). This is called "Die Weißwurst auszuzzeln".

    Haus der 111 Blere (Franzstr. 3, Schwabing, U3/U6 to Münchner Freiheit).

    As the name says: the house of 111 beers.

    Chinesischer Turm (Am Englischen Garten. Bus 54 from Münchner Freiheit to Chinesischer Turm).

    Probably the most beautiful beer garden in Munich. A colorful mixture of all population shifts, from,the millionaire to the tramp, from the housewife to the star model. The tables are grouped round a Chinese tower. The best time to visit it is during summer, but you can give it a try in September if the weather is fine.

    Isartalbahnhof (S7 to Großhesselohe)

    The former station building is now a public beer house. They are brewing their own Weizen beer. You can see the brewing kettles from the restaurant. They also have excellent meals, a kind of new style Bavarian meals. (I personally like the Sauerkraut soup. Try it. you will be surprised!). They also have self-distilled liquors. It's worth the trip outside Munich.

    NB: no longer true - see below.

    Forschungsbraurei (Unterhachinger Str. 76, S1 to Perlach).

    They are brewing their own beer, and it's said to be one of the best in Munich. I haven't been there for an eternity so I can't tell you out of personal experience.

     

    Now another hint: It's probablv worth for you to buy a Tageskarte for using the public transport system in Munich. It costs, I think, 9 Marks inside Munich and 15 Marks for the entire area (which you would need if you go to the Isartalbahnhof), and it's valid for two people and the whole day.

    Have fun!


The CIX List

Someone on CIX asked about places to eat and drink in Munich. He got a number of replies which he collated and posted there. This is that list.

    Specialities and International Cuisine that includes Chinese, French, Italian, Japanese, Mexican ...

    Andechser am Dom - Interesting. Bavarian.

    Buxs Vegetarische Kuche - Perhaps the best vegetarian in Germany.

    Kai's Bistro - Kitch. Fun. Interesting Decoration and Waiters.

    L'Mare - Excellent food. A little expensive. Phone in advance.

    Langoustin - Excellent food and wine.

    Tantris - One of the most expensive. Make sure you have a Gold Card.

    Palenka - Excellent Mexican with good food and ambiance.

    Paulaner Brauhaus on Kapuziner Platz - Good food. Good ambience.

    Even the Rathskeller on Marian Platz in the centre of the city is good.

    And don't forget to sample the Weiss Bier with Champagne ...


My Personal Recommendation

Near the university there is a bar, with simple communal tables, good beer (the Alt Wiesbier is a particular favourite of mine), good and interesting food, and yummy puddings. Most of the punters seem to be connected with the university and the atmosphere is gentle and bohemian. There are posters all over the walls. The waitstaff speak english but put up with my bad german. It is the place in Munich I feel most relaxed.

And what is this haven called you ask? The Atzinger. It's on the corner of Schellingstr and Amelienstr. Take the U3/U6 to Universität. The first link below recommends it too, so I'm not alone in rating it.


Isartalbahnhof

This brew pub, which used to be one of our favourites, seems to have gone rapidly downhill since we were last there. What follows is my mail to Sarah (who owns a page which also recommends this place):

Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 15:15 +0100 (BST)
From: 
 (Paul Oldham)
Subject: Isarbraeu Gaststaette
To: 

CC: [everyone who was there with me]

As I've got Sarah's page as a link to my page of Munich recommendations I
thought you might like to hear our
tale of woe about the Isartalbahnhof brew pub. We went there last Tuesday
night. There were about a dozen of us and we'd booked in advance from
England because we were keen to go and knew we've need to reserve a table
for a large party.

It was a disaster. The waitress was inattentive, having ordered our beers it
took an age to get her to take our food order. After about 45 minutes she
announced that they'd run out of one of the things we'd ordered and could we
order something else (she also had the number of people who'd ordered it
wrong). Over an hour after we'd placed our order the food hadn't arrived and
we were having problems getting her back to order more beer. We complained
to her. "We're busy" she said "you have to wait your turn".

Finally three dishes arrived. Then nothing more. By this time we were
getting pretty angry. She wasn't interested. In the end I complained to the
chap pulling beer. He took it all on board right away and grabbed another
waiter who, to his credit, got most of the food to us quickly. Still three
people without food though. I went and found the waiter again and he got the
remaining three dishes to us in another ten minutes.

While all this was going on we started looking around. A german couple
behind us, who did manage to get food, left after a few mouthfuls, without
paying. On another table a group of germans were also complaining to the
waitress. So it wasn't just us english getting a bad time then.

At the end, once we'd all eaten we got the bill and paid - the exact amount.
No tip. One of our number explained to the waitress very clearly why. The
germans on the next table applauded. They said that they'd been waiting an
hour to order food (she'd only recently cleared the debris from the people
who left without paying).

So we left, having had no pudding, very little beer (because she never asked
us if we wanted any) and with a very bad taste in the mouth. Whether it was
just this one waitress, or her and the cook, or what I don't know. But it
was a disaster.

It's a shame because it used to be a very good place to eat. But we'll
*never* go there again now. And I don't think we're the only ones.

Regards

Paul

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